Starbuck wrote:Hi Leo,
If you can get the Jaguar coil for a reasonable price there is no reason to use the Bosch unit. The single Jaguar coil is what is recommended and it will be the correct low impedance type. It is a good idea to 'chase' the redundant wiring for the second coil and make sure it has all been removed when the engine was installed in your car, or at least properly insulated if not completely removed so it can't cause any shorts.
Cap, rotors and plugs are very easy to find. Buy a good quality rotor and cap - much easier to do with the older Lucas single row distributor than with the later Marelli twin row.
Make sure you have a nice new piece of fuel hose handy that will fit over the insulator of the spark plugs - it makes it much easier to get the plug in and started in the thread without having to remove everything from the valley. It is also a very good idea to get the vacuum cleaner out (hoover - for you British types ), to vacuum up any dirt etc from around the spark plug holes before you remove the plugs. Do the same thing again once the plug has been removed. Use pure Molybdenum Disulphide 'graphite' grease (not copper anti-seize) on the threads and taper seats as this will make it easier to remove them - do not use the factory torque figures for the plugs if using anti-seize as they will then be too tight - literally just a little more than finger tight.
leo_denmark wrote:I've concluded it must be the other way round: the spark gap must point outwards and the side electrode attachment point must therefore point towards the engine valley.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests