Hi Pim and Rens,
Both of you have seen some of these photos before so some of this will not be a surprise to you.
pimgmx wrote:upgrading cruise control on a sprint monster like this is not something I would've thought of!
She is now running a Bosch cable unit that operates on the top cable groove of the throttle wheel. To get it to work I had to shift the throttle cable to the bottom groove (all about geometry), and that meant lowering the throttle capstan assembly, and that meant lowering the fuel rail! The Bosch system is compact, light, and operates off the same 'hall signal' on the differential that the speedo uses. We cover huge distances here and 'Cate's Cat' gets used along with our other toys, so cruise control is pretty much a must.
Rensdd6 wrote:[I made at last a selection of photos of Dunkeld but wonder to publish them, it is a small selection but still large …]
You should publish them - especially for those of us that couldn't make it!
As for my skills, they have taken a long time to develop and some of my efforts when younger were neither successful nor smart (weld a fuel tank anyone?). I spent many years working on engineering projects that were significantly more complex and significantly more expensive if you got them wrong, so cars are fun for me rather than hard work (except when I drop heavy bits on myself, cut myself, try to rip thumbnails off, burn myself, hit my head under the car, get grit in my eyes from under the car..........).
'Two eared' clamps use a tool to compress the 'ears' but the tool is too large to get into some of the places I used the clamps. To get around it I made my own clamshell tool - just a large nut cut in halves and ground to the correct shape, before being tapped for a grade 10 cap head screw that goes through both halves. You place the tool over either side of the ear and use an allen key in the cap head screw to compress the two halves of the clamshell together, which squeezes the ear together. As I said, roller clamps are still used on things like the fuel filter and pump so they can be serviced easily.
Rensdd6 wrote:I have read about the first part, but the rest is a mystery to me, abacadabra!
On pre-Marelli V12s the combination of high manifold vacuum, lots of unburnt fuel and lots of ignition timing (vacuum) advance with the throttle closed on overrun at high revs, means unburned fuel gets dumped into the exhaust and provides that 'popping' from the exhaust we all love so much. Problem is, it produces lots of hydrocarbons and can shatter the substrate in ceramic catalytic converters and damage metal converters. Jaguar used valves on the front of each plenum so that when the throttle is closed in the above circumstances, fresh air is drawn into the plenum from the air box and it burns the fuel in the exhaust properly - no popping, no destroyed catalytic converters. Later versions of the Lucas ECUs used different programming and shut down the fuel flow more effectively with the throttle closed, so it is less of a risk and I took advantage of that and removed the valves. It was suggested to me that removal of the valves would destroy the catalytic converters despite my assurances the later programming would stop that happening - so I removed them, tidied up the engine bay a little more, and showed them it was just fine
Rensdd6 wrote:What stainless steel do you use? I can imagine that you do the welding yourself, but the bending?!
I depends on what I am doing, but the highest grade I ever use on an exhaust is 1610. Higher grades of stainless work harden and then crack when used on the long exhausts of road cars - even though it looks cool when polished. I do the welding, but not the bending - I have a local exhaust shop that bends the tube to whatever angle I specify.
Rensdd6 wrote:"Tailpipes … 2.5" tapered tips", isn't that too large to look decent?
It might be that my English doesn't translate too well - basically a bit of polished stainless steel 2.5" tubing that is cut off at an angle. The tips are up pretty close to the underside of the rear bumper (the openings are slightly deeper on our car - our one concession to modification of the bodywork) to get a better angle for the rear mufflers so the bottom of the mufflers follow the upward taper of the bodyline at the rear. The tips are actually quite hard to see at all now.
We're settled in for the evening with the heater on here - nice to be able to relax at home for a night in
P.S. Don't forget those Dunkeld photos Rens!