pimgmx wrote:They are a steel-rubber-steel 'sandwich', connecting the front subframe to the chassis with guiding pins and a couple of bolts.
The rubber-steel bonding tends to delaminate over time, allowing for torsional play between subframe and chassis. Brake judder and/or clunking noises in sharp corners/stopping/reversing are symptoms of worn mounts.
To diagnose their condition you will need to lift one side of the car up and use a crow bar/tyre iron to put some vertical force on the veemount to check for delamination. Also see this topic: viewtopic.php?t=997349
Actually my car handles very well, no problems on cornering, or on reverse, only that 'bump' when stopping harshly.
pimgmx wrote:XJ4081 wrote:But maybe it's the same bush as at the rear upper whishbone (no 3)?
I'm pretty sure it is. Doesn't make any sense to me that they only offer one bush separately and not the other.
I am not quite sure, I have seen parts in the catalogue that occured separately on the same drawings/part lists but in the end refered to the same part number. They could have done the same here, but they did not, for whatever reason .
pimgmx wrote:I wouldn't order several hundreds of Euros/Pounds worth of parts (and worst-case: hundreds upon hundreds of outsourced labour on top of that) before having a correct & complete diagnosis. A rear suspension overhaul is an even trickier job (more parts that are potentially stuck) than the front subframe, and I would think twice before going in unless I was fully confident I had a good reason to do so.
Maybe it would be better to thoroughly inspect the suspension before ordering parts, but that's also a question of logistics. Rear axle camber and toe definitely need correction, but it is the question were to start. Maybe it would already help to correct camber. The easiest explanation would be that they simply screwed it up when they once replaced SLS, and it simply needs to be readjusted. Next cause could be (fulcrum) bearings, than bushes and struts.
pimgmx wrote:Note that the rear wheels are DESIGNED to have some play with pressure released (ie on a two-post car lift), which is often incorrectly diagnosed as worn suspension components. Also note that play can be as easily caused by worn wheel bearings or (a known weakness for the rear LEFT wheel only) a hub nut that has loosened.
That's a good note. Sometimes, when slowly driving on bumpy roads or paved roads I notice a decent rattling noise from the rear. Sounds like a sheet of metal patting against something more solid, I already thought about exhaust or brake heat shields. But wheel bearings could also be an explanation. Though I would rather locate the noise on the right side than on the left.