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Air-con rebuild - how does the condenser fit ?

moglite
Posts: 88
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 11:25 pm
Location: Fareham, Hampshire, UK

Air-con rebuild - how does the condenser fit ?

Postby moglite » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:04 pm

I've got a bit of time next week, and I really want to get the A/C working in my Double-Six, in preparation for a trip to LeMans Classic in July.

I've splashed a little cash on a Groupon voucher for a re-gas at ATS for £29.50. :D

But I'm getting ahead of myself, before then I've got to fit a replacement compressor, which I'm not expecting too many issues with, as it seems like basics mechanics.

But I've also bought bought the condensor and drier kit http://www.fenair.co.uk/shop/viewitem.php?productid=96

That doesn't look quite as straightforward. They mention re-routing pipe which will be fine

How do I get access to the drier - is it by removing the grill slats and maybe the grill ?

What about the condensor ? How does that come out ?
Will I end up disturbing the cooling system in anyway ?

I've got new thermostats and anti-freeze ready to go in, but I'd rather not do that at the moment if I can avoid it.

Many Thanks

donkeyotty
North Wales Rep
Posts: 5426
Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:39 pm
Location: North Wales

Re: Air-con rebuild - how does the condenser fit ?

Postby donkeyotty » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:38 pm

I am sure someone will be along soon who has V12 knowledge but here is what I know. The air con system is stand alone and is not connected to the cooling system. The receiver dryer sits on top of the condenser. Yes remove the slats for better access. Once you remove the radiator/condenser top cover plate you will have access to the condenser. You can then remove the condenser from the top when it is disconnected. You will have some wiggle room as the radiator will move slightly. Make sure you have the 4 bushes ready to replace the old ones, they will probably have died of old age by now, likewise the radiator bushes. Be very careful when disconnecting pipes, they can twist and snap in the blink of an eye. You may need some o rings if you damage them. When you refit them make sure they are lubricated, I managed to get hold of some PAG oil for that job.
I have just had £29.50 regas done at ATS and it only improved my cooling very slightly, the mechanics thermometer being broke did not help. :(
1994 Regency Red 4.0 Sovereign M117FVC Chassis 705979
1993 Volvo 940 2.0 Turbo Wentworth Estate (Daily)

moglite
Posts: 88
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 11:25 pm
Location: Fareham, Hampshire, UK

Re: Air-con rebuild - how does the condenser fit ?

Postby moglite » Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:17 pm

Thanks - that helps a lot.

newyankee
Posts: 63
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:32 am
Location: Hamburg, Germany

Re: Air-con rebuild - how does the condenser fit ?

Postby newyankee » Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:56 pm

I strongly suggest to remove the bonnet first. This facilitates access significantly. Then remove the radiator/condenser cover plate. There is no need to remove any cooling system hoses. As said, the condenser can be removed, a second person pushing and holding the radiator in the direction of the engine comes in handy.

On the XJ81, the drier sits in front of the double fan assembly. It is held by two brackets which are attached with philips screws. For proper access to the drier, removing the grille slates should suffice, but I don'T quite remember. You may want to remove the grille frame as well.
--
1994 XJ12
1964 MkII 4.0 project
1968 TR5
2016 RRS SDV8 4.4

david
Posts: 6593
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2008 8:09 pm
Location: Cheshire, UK

Re: Air-con rebuild - how does the condenser fit ?

Postby david » Tue Jun 05, 2018 4:15 pm

donkeyotty wrote:I am sure someone will be along soon who has V12 knowledge but here is what I know. The air con system is stand alone and is not connected to the cooling system. The receiver dryer sits on top of the condenser. Yes remove the slats for better access. Once you remove the radiator/condenser top cover plate you will have access to the condenser. You can then remove the condenser from the top when it is disconnected. You will have some wiggle room as the radiator will move slightly. Make sure you have the 4 bushes ready to replace the old ones, they will probably have died of old age by now, likewise the radiator bushes. Be very careful when disconnecting pipes, they can twist and snap in the blink of an eye. You may need some o rings if you damage them. When you refit them make sure they are lubricated, I managed to get hold of some PAG oil for that job.
I have just had £29.50 regas done at ATS and it only improved my cooling very slightly, the mechanics thermometer being broke did not help. :(


I replaced the condenser and receiver-drier on my SIX CYLINDER XJ40 a while back. It may be different on the V12, since I have never seen the condenser on one - it may be a different size/configeration.

Like donkeyotty, I removed the grille slats and after disconnecting the pipework and removing the radiator/condenser top bracket/cover plate found that the condenser will lift out from the top just clearing the bonnet. There is a small degree of play in the radiator - as Don says, it will move a bit to let the condenser come out.

It is quite a while since I did the job. I remember that I thought I may have to remove the bonnet struts and get a helper to hold the bonnet up further open (closer to vertical) - but I am fairly sure that I didn't have to do this in the end and that the condenser came out with the bonnet in the standard open position supported by its struts - but that it only just does it. Unfortunately, I can't quite remember this!

I was quite fortunate in that my system came apart really easily and the rest of the system was fully functional. The leak was in the condenser which was very rusty at the bottom. The A/C is actually pretty good, cooling well and with a considerable volume of air.
Image 1992 Sovereign 3.2 diamond blue (1993 model)