katar83 wrote:I'm currently experimenting with rust removal on my old calipers. As you probably all know, Deox-C works amazing when it comes to rust but not the cheapest stuff around. I normally also use citric acid as it is cheap, super safe, and works very well but also someone recommended me oxalic acid(you can find it in rhubarb) which I've decided to try today.
Both citric acid and Deox-C will leave some black rust(which is ok) on the surface which can be a bit of a pain to clean up afterwards(stainy!) but as it turns out oxalic acid will dissolve the black rust within minutes leaving perfect clean metal
One thing neither of these chemicals will remove though is this:
The funny, orangy spots here that look rusty are patches of crumbly iron, they are proper stuck, will not dissolve in anything I've tried so far and I'm unsure what this actually is. If I hit it with hammer it will chip off fairly easily.
By the way I've started with this:
Also, I've packed my entire rear a-frame in a polythene(800 gauge) bag that are normally used for mattresses, poured couple of buckets of water with some citric acid and currently using same method to derust the whole thing, more on this soon
Walker wrote:Did you ever try electrolysis/electrolytic rust removal? Really easy to do and safe, I used a 12v car battery charger and a 35l tub. Plenty of videos on Youtube etc but was hard to research about 8 year back when I first tried it. Finally decided the final setup including a fish tank heater and an electrolyte solution made up with caustic soda. The process is slow, but you'd be amazed how much comes off after an over night bubble. I work for a shot blasting company these days, so no farting about just take a bootfull to work
I've read your other rust removal remedy in another post some time ago and found that a bit too fussy for me but this is a far simpler process, do you buy this in powdered form and mix it or liquid. I can see on the internet it's available in either form.
Does this oxalic acid attack rubber components
You always amaze me with your solutions to common problems, now I have this itchy problem on my............don't worry.
donkeyotty wrote:As has been said before we can never get rid of rust just slow it down, unless of course you cut it out and replace it with fresh steel. Deox-C is good stuff but yes expensive and great if you can immerse an item in it, fair play to you for getting a whole rear frame immersed
One of the benefits of having a car long term is being able to monitor previous rust killing attempts using various concoctions. I used Vactan for years but only with what I deemed to be limited success. The default brand now seems to be Jenolite ( which I have now returned to ) which is enjoying a resurgence with several new products on the market including a spray option. Whenever I use any rust killer I tend not to cover it over with thick under seal as it becomes impossible to monitor it in the future. I prefer Hammerite spray black under seal to give a nice thin smooth covering.
We all have our preferred methods and branded concoctions, be good to know of others.
old del boy wrote:I've been repairing rusted areas for many years and i've found jenolite to be pretty good , it does really need as much rust sanding or grinding off to get the best results , i combine this with a couple of coats of Bonda zinc primer which is a resin and you can get it in a spray or as i prefer in 500 ml tins for brushing , when this has cured i overpaint with a grey primer to get the colour right but once the Bonda has cured you can leave it for months without any further coating and it will not rust , i'm sure some of you older guys remember years ago seeing cars with a wing in a red oxide type colour , some cars stayed like this for ages as they used to say it just got harder and having no top coat didn't do it any harm , i've done it myself .
Like Don i'm not a fan of thick underseal , it just hides any bubbles that may pop up , i use Dinitrol 2315 as a base coat [ thin brown wax that gets in to seams etc] and when dry finished of with Dinitrol 4941 which is a black wax that sets hard and dry to the touch and is self healing , i'm convinced my methods have saved my Rover SD1 to the extent that it's now an extremely rare model as very few are left of of the thousands made , i think the last time i looked there were only around 20 taxed .
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bonda-Rust-P ... :rk:2:pf:0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... l&_sacat=0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jenolite-Rus ... :rk:3:pf:0
abercanadian wrote:I always used a rust converter (plain ol' phosphoric acid) on rusty areas, it turns the iron oxide (rust) into a black, inert iron compound, ferric phosphate. Prime it then paint it - job done.
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