1994 Daimler Double Six

[donkeyotty]

mine is 703869 registered April 94
just for info
BB

Mine is 705787 and April as well.

[richard1983]

Just thought I'd add some more info regarding the build/origin of the car.

I still don't have an actual build date from Jaguar Heritage, however I did pull the security ECU out of the boot today to try and get the alarm working again.

On the ECU were a couple of stickers - as below.




The first gives the body number, which does match the body number of this car. It also gives a date of 03/02/93.
Maybe this is the date the car was on the assembly line.

On the second pic, there is the original quality control inspection sticker. The date on that is 0183. I read 01/83 from that.
Perhaps it was sat on a shelf for some time!

Anyway, the good news is that I reflowed lots of dry solder in the ECU - and the alarm and remote now work. Which is excellent news.
The remote works best when next to the rear of the car - but I guess that's because that's where the ECU is..

[XJ6Paul]

My car is chassis 676860 - so that makes it a 1993.25MY car then.

If the 1993.25MY cars were introduced in December 1992 - mine must have been manufactured in early 1993(ish).

I wonder what happened to it for a year then?

Perhaps I should get a heritage certificate - just to nail to build date down and find out!

For what it's worth, my XJ12 with a 4/93 build date on the VIN sticker is 682205. So March, 1993 sounds about right for your car. All XJ81s are considered to be 1994 model year in the US for some reason though.

[naki_k]

That’s good to know Richard.
I haven’t had to do a security ECU yet on these. But it seems any of the electrics on these are liable to soldering issues then?

Have you tried a new battery in the Fob? I find they can work much better with a new battery.
Also check the contacts are clean.

[richard1983]

That’s good to know Richard.
I haven’t had to do a security ECU yet on these. But it seems any of the electrics on these are liable to soldering issues then?

Have you tried a new battery in the Fob? I find they can work much better with a new battery.
Also check the contacts are clean.

Yes, the solder in the ECU was the usual blend of dry connections and basically not enough solder on the connections in the first place.

There is a new battery in the fob - but the contacts are in very poor condition. I might try some foil to improve things a little. The second remote is totally out of commission - looks like it was kept underwater for a few years!
Might try one of my fobs from the Sovereign on it too to test.

[richard1983]

For what it's worth, my XJ12 with a 4/93 build date on the VIN sticker is 682205. So March, 1993 sounds about right for your car. All XJ81s are considered to be 1994 model year in the US for some reason though.

Just to add more confusion naturally - the ECU is made in the U.S., whilst the car is assembled in the UK.

So is the dated sticker a U.S. dated sticker or UK sticker? In the UK, the date format is dd/mm/yy, whilst in the U.S. its mm/dd/yy I believe.

So it's either Feb or March 1993!

[naki_k]

That’s good to know Richard.
I haven’t had to do a security ECU yet on these. But it seems any of the electrics on these are liable to soldering issues then?

Have you tried a new battery in the Fob? I find they can work much better with a new battery.
Also check the contacts are clean.

Yes, the solder in the ECU was the usual blend of dry connections and basically not enough solder on the connections in the first place.

There is a new battery in the fob - but the contacts are in very poor condition. I might try some foil to improve things a little. The second remote is totally out of commission - looks like it was kept underwater for a few years!
Might try one of my fobs from the Sovereign on it too to test.

I think it must have been the type of solder used in those days, since all the 40 electrical components are made by different manufacturers/ companies, but they all seem to be going the same way sooner or later?
Anyhow. Well done for getting to grips with it all.

[Brake buster]

That’s good to know Richard.
I haven’t had to do a security ECU yet on these. But it seems any of the electrics on these are liable to soldering issues then?

Have you tried a new battery in the Fob? I find they can work much better with a new battery.
Also check the contacts are clean.

Yes, the solder in the ECU was the usual blend of dry connections and basically not enough solder on the connections in the first place.

There is a new battery in the fob - but the contacts are in very poor condition. I might try some foil to improve things a little. The second remote is totally out of commission - looks like it was kept underwater for a few years!
Might try one of my fobs from the Sovereign on it too to test.

I think it must have been the type of solder used in those days, since all the 40 electrical components are made by different manufacturers/ companies, but they all seem to be going the same way sooner or later?
Anyhow. Well done for getting to grips with it all.

back in the day........there was lead in solder, then it got banned......thus , more brittle solder..........but it did stop people and wildlife dying, lol

BB

[nlcrane]

That’s good to know Richard.
I haven’t had to do a security ECU yet on these. But it seems any of the electrics on these are liable to soldering issues then?

Have you tried a new battery in the Fob? I find they can work much better with a new battery.
Also check the contacts are clean.

Yes, the solder in the ECU was the usual blend of dry connections and basically not enough solder on the connections in the first place.

There is a new battery in the fob - but the contacts are in very poor condition. I might try some foil to improve things a little. The second remote is totally out of commission - looks like it was kept underwater for a few years!
Might try one of my fobs from the Sovereign on it too to test.

I think it must have been the type of solder used in those days, since all the 40 electrical components are made by different manufacturers/ companies, but they all seem to be going the same way sooner or later?
Anyhow. Well done for getting to grips with it all.

The older types of solder didn’t have a resin core like the new ones do. This had to be applied separately and was always a hit and miss affair. Modern solder has a resin core running through it and this actually cleans the surfaces before the actual solder is melted onto the PCB. Also it must not be forgotten that solder itself has no mechanical strength, so if a gap is bridged with solder alone this will surely crack and fail in time.

[naki_k]

Is it certain then that all soldering will fail sooner or later? Even if there is not any movement as such between the points soldered?