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Head Liner Replacement

How to do all those tricky XJ40 repairs
j_r
Founder and Owner
Posts: 1093
Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:18 pm
Location: Cheshire
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Head Liner Replacement

Postby j_r » Sun Apr 14, 2013 8:53 pm

Better late than never

A big thanks to Mick for taking the time to do this, sorry it took me so long to post it.. ;) ;)

XJ 40 REPLACEMENT OF HEAD LINING.
Firstly, may I state that I have no connection with the company mentioned in this article, other than the fact that they supplied the head lining. (fromebay) I did make mistakes while tackling this task, so I will explain what I did as I go through.

So here goes. The easy bit.
Remove the cant rail both sides ,starting from above the rear windscreen, using a wide bladed knife. As you do this, you will probably hear the clips that hold it on…break. This is normal. On the rear of this first cant rail, you will see black clips which have been inserted into clear plastic bungs (picture at the end of the article) in the body work. Remove the remains of the black clips from the cant rail and the clear bungs using a pair of needle pliers. If you can’t get the clear ones out , push them further into the body work.
Remove the Dowager straps. (photo) these are held on by three screws. Two are visible , the other is behind the tunnel shaped plastic insert which must be prised off using a thin bladed knife. Be careful that this doesn’t ping off , out the door. Store these all on the back window ledge.

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Dowager strap
Work your way along the cant rail , including the A pillar. Remove the sun visors (three screws) and the clip at the other end (one screw).

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Rear of cant rail.(with a small white label that say’s Sue + Kerry. Wonder where they are now ?)

Remove the interior light unit. Turn the round button with a coin and slide the unit away from the windscreen. Once the unit has dropped down, disconnect ….everything and remove the unit.

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If you have a sliding sunroof, open it and remove the furflex around the opening. Remove the nearside front door card, armrest etc.
Remove the nearside front passenger seat. This is held in by four torx bolts. I didn’t have the correct size torx fitting, so I got three out with a large Philips screwdriver, but the fourth wouldn’t shift. Fortunately my local independent Jaguar garage in Welwyn Garden City , freed it in 5 seconds. (photo) Don’t forget all the electrical connections underneath.

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One of the four torx bolts holding the front passenger seat.

Remove the centre consol between the front seats. (consult your Haynes workshop manual, or drop me an email.)
The head lining should now be supported by a number of metal tabs .These can be bent inwards slightly , whereby the head lining former can be removed through the front nearside door.
Where the light unit was situated, you will see a couple of round springy clips that held some of the larger connections .remove them from the old head lining and set them aside.
If you have a sunroof and intend to recover that as well, open the sunroof about a foot. On the front edge of the sun roof just under the rubber seal you will see four black screws. Remove these using a short magnetic Phillips. If you drop one of these screws , put an hour aside to find it. Remove the sun roof by lifting at the front, and sliding forward. I would get a mate to help with this as I needs to come out dead straight.

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Sunroof open about 12 inches

Under the sunroof, you will see a metal plate held on by six (or was it 8 )plastic tabs. Turn the tabs sideways to remove them. Then lift out the metal plate on which is your fabric. Clean the old material off this and any old glue.
Now the product. I bought a fibreglass headlining on ebay from a company called Myrtle Ltd.
I t isn’t cheap at £200 plus £40 postage.
My mistake was ordering the wrong colour. The head lining comes in two colours. Grey or beige
( Limestone) assuming that mine had faded over the years, I ordered beige. But having removed the furflex and sunvisors, I realised it wasgrey. My interior is doeskin so the beige is fine.. If you have a sun roof, it comes with loose material to cover the metal plate mentioned above plus the interior light unit, which incidently, must be taken apart to recover.Word of warning here. The light unit is secured to the headlining former by a U shaped metal plate that is pop riveted. Don’t rivet this back on until the head lining is in the car but before you lift it into place.
Now the real stinky bit .
The former needs to get into the car through the near side front door. The width needs to be reduced by about 6-9 inches. My local friendly car interior fitter arrived with his mate who used to fit sliding sun roofs for a living.
String was tied around the head lining, while pressure was applied from the side thus reducing the width. This is quite scary ! The string was tied tight with a slip knot. With one person guiding/manipulating the thing into the car from the front passenger side door , while the other two work from the rear doors. At this time the former still has its plastic covering to prevent dirt or damage. It isn’t easy ! Once in the car cut the string, remove the plastic. Refit the interior light metal plate (I think it was pop riveted ) and lift the former into place supported by the metal tabs mentioned earlier.
Breath a sigh of relief have a cuppa, and a few days off to recover.
The sun roof .Take the sun roof metal plate from which you have removed the old material and glue. Lay your material , colour side down, then , using a good quality spray adhesive, cover the metal plate with glue but avoid the holes where the black plastic tabs came out. Lay the plate , glue side down on the material and place some weight on it till the glue is dry. The material should then be folded over to the opposite side and stuck down but avoiding the holes.(take note or photo’s before you remove the old material) Set this aside.(away from the cat and grandchildren)
The material, at this time is covering the sunroof hole. This needs to be cut out but make the hole 1- 2 inches smaller than the actual hole as this flap will be folded over as you refit the furflex. You can cut a diagonal slit in the corners. Refit the furflex, as this will support the former. Don’t be tempted to cut the furflex if it appears too long. It needs to be pushed well into the corners.
Refit the metal plate mentioned above with the black plastic tabs followed by the sliding sunroof. This can be fiddly to get straight and level.
Interior light unit. Mine has an infra red receiver unit. Small block box with a white ball. When I reinstalled this (although I never had an infra redkey ) it kept blowing the fuses. I left it off before I recovered the light unit. Reconnect all the electrical connections two of which can be held by the springy things mentioned earlier. On the front of this unit you will see two round springs. These are-slid onto two metal pieces just above the windscreen.

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Redundant infra red unit

Sun visors. There are holes for the sunvisors. Don’t be tempted to cut the hole in the material, the same size as the hole in the fibre glass. Cut an X in the material for the screws access, otherwise the sun visor bracket will not cover the hole .
Refit centre consol, all the wiring that goes with it, the passenger seat and door panel.
Job finished. Shouldn’t take more than ….six weeks-ish.

I apologise for not taking pictures as I went especially the major job of getting it in the car. You will also need to replace the clips that hold the cant rail on .
Part numbers for the studs and bushes for replacing the cant rails.
AFU 4137J and AGU 2388J YOU WILL NEED TWENTY OF EACH. COST AROUND £20 Still available from you jag dealer.

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All finished.

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Again a big thank you to Mick Corley for this

Cheers

John
Founder, Owner, Memberships and all round XJ40 Nut

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