Question on front shocks

[katar83]

I suspect that the front large bush you have is an equivalent of a usual bush hidden under rubber boot in normal shock(that Larry mentioned in another thread recently), you'll need to add all rubber bushes to these, so 4 front ones and 4 rear ones.

[Lew]

ok, but on the fronts, you actually mean I have to put new XJ40 bushes "in addition" to these, or "instead of"??
I'm not clear, thanks.

[katar83]

In addition, over the spacer on the shocker rod.

[Lew]

Ok Sir,

I'm clear with the front bushes, a set of 4 part # MMD2144AA is needed, correct? I guess i can re use the gaiter of the existing Jag sport shocks and put it on the Konis.

But as the rear assembly is more "hidden", what rubber bushes are there involved? Just part # 3565AA, or are there more things to change ?? I want to buy the whole thing at once before attempting any removal to somehow avoid the risk of staying stranded...

[katar83]

Correct re MMD2144AA.

Re rear shocks, have a look at this recent great thread re rear shocks:

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=998347

It has info on every part that you'll need.

[Lew]

Hi there

It took us +4h on Sunday to install the front shocks. Amazing result. Now the cat goes on rails and the clonks have gone. The green BOGE Sports do not look that bad after all, but internally they must be exhausted after 26 years, assuming they are still those factory fitted.

Just one question, i tuned the konis to hardness # 1 ( they have 3 positions, 0,1 and 2, so the one in the middle) but i'm not sure on how tight i have to screw the rubber bushes. The old ones were no visuel reference becasue they were completely crushed out, but i'm concerned about pressing the new ones too hard or too lose. Aparently the upper shows about 1cm of rubber whilst prior to mouting they were about +3cm high. I'dont want to squeeze them wrong from the beginning and also do not want the shocks wandering up and down.

Any ideas on here, please? Thank You all.

[abercanadian]

It has been quite some time since I did front shocks ~7 years? [so maybe wait for confirmation by another member] ....However, from memory I think the nuts "bottom out" and get tightened until they stop? Maybe I'm wrong about that but that's what I seem to recall.

HTH

Larry

[pimgmx]

35-43 N/m of metric torque...

[Lew]

Thanks dudes, but got another trouble here.

We have two typical dynamometric wrench which seems to be useless here because the shock shaft itself turns together with the nut. I mean, yes ok, the bush gets compressed, but there is kinda no torque limit.
So i guess a special "lateral" dynamometric wrench is needed so that the shaft can be stopped / blocked at the upper end from turning fool whilst the nut is tightened from below ??

Otherwise I can't imagine another way to do this job. Perhaps just tighten both sides, measuring the visible thread length to get both sides matched??? But in this case it would just by naked eye, without torque settings.
Thanks.

[pimgmx]

The recommended tools to tighten/undo the upper shocker nut are vise grips to lock the shock absorber shaft/thread and a (ratchet) ring spanner for the nut.